Embark on a mediterranean sailing adventure
29 July – Capraia
We started the day anchored in Cala del Ceppo, surrounded by the impressive volcanic rocks and unspoilt nature of Capraia. This island, part of the Tuscan archipelago, is a real gem of biodiversity. In the morning, after a leisurely breakfast, we set sail for the island’s small port. As we approached, the Torre del Porto, a watchtower built in the sixteenth century to protect against pirate attacks, rose in front of us. This tower is part of the island’s rich military heritage, which has played a strategic role in the history of the Mediterranean. Unfortunately, the port was full, so we dropped anchor just outside. We took the dinghy to the port, a picturesque place with colourful houses and an abundance of bougainvillea. Lunch, consisting of fried octopus, prawns and pistachio ice cream, added a gourmet touch to our visit.
In the afternoon, we continue to embark on our Mediterranean sailing adventure and we set sail for Corsica, heading for the Finicchiarola islands, a protected nature park. The sunset bathed the Genoese tower on the islets in reddish hues, a majestic sight that rounded off the day in style.
30 July – Cap Corse and Centuri – Sailing Corsica
At dawn, I went for a run along the coastal path, breathing in the aromas of the Corsican maquis. This historic trail crosses white sandy beaches and turquoise waters, and offers breathtaking views of the remains of Genoese towers, such as the one on the island of Giraglia. These towers, built between the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, were strategic lookouts against invasion. One of them, abandoned after an English raid in the 18th century, bears witness to past turbulence.
A diversion took us to the Chapelle Sainte-Marie, a quiet sanctuary for sailors, where ancient frescoes depict historic ships. This sacred site is a tribute to the island’s maritime tradition.
Back on board Agapè, we rounded Cap Corse, passing close to the island of Giraglia with its iconic lighthouse. The steep cliffs and numerous Genoese towers added to the dramatic scenery of this region. We anchored at Centuri, a fishing village renowned for its lobster. Dinner was a feast of fresh lobster accompanied by fiadone, a traditional Corsican dessert made with brocciu, lemon and sugar, a real local speciality, while admiring a spectacular sunset.
1 August – Lotu beach
After a quiet morning, we set sail for the Agriates desert, intending to anchor at Salecchia beach, but in the end it was Lotu beach that offered us its haven of peace. The bay, surrounded by turquoise water and white sand, looked like a natural aquarium, with fish visible from the deck. Snorkelling, I encountered vibrant underwater life, including two large flying fish resting near the anchor – a surreal moment.
The wind shifted slightly, and the boat rolled into the evening. In search of calm, I spent the night in my hammock stretched between the masts. Under a starry sky, I saw two shooting stars crossing the sky, a magical sight.
2 August – Calvi
The morning began with a leisurely trip to Lotu beach, where three cows grazed slowly on the sand. I explored the paths above the rocky coast, leading to Salecchia beach and a rustic hut serving refreshing drinks.
Later, we headed for Calvi, skirting the jagged coastline of the Agriates Desert and the picturesque railway line that links Île Rousse to Calvi. At 5pm, we dropped anchor in the bay of Calvi, in ideal conditions. It was a magical evening, with dinner on board with our friend Mine and her children, featuring pan-fried tuna and local wine.
3 August – Getaway ashore in Corsica
Today we finally had the chance to go ashore! Norbert and I swam ashore early in the morning, equipped with our masks and snorkels to observe the marine life. Below Agapè, numerous starfish dotted the seabed, and during the 400-metre swim we spotted plaice and three rays – a spectacular sight!
Mine and Amy took us to Calenzana, a village perched in the hills behind the Bay of Calvi. This village is famous for being the starting point of the GR20, one of Europe’s most challenging and beautiful hiking trails, which crosses the Corsican mountains. The views of the mountains and the bay were breathtaking. We visited a family home surrounded by a lush garden of lemon, fig, kumquat and rosemary trees. Breakfast on the terrace, with homemade jams, was a delight.
After filling up on Corsican delights, we swam back to Agapè and headed south along the dramatic coast of La Scandola, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, before reaching Girolata.
4 August – La Scandola and Girolata
At La Scandola, we dived into a protected cove surrounded by red rocks. This unique natural site is a haven for exceptional flora and fauna, including many marine species. The area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its rare biodiversity. More information on Scandola.
We continued south, passing impressive rock formations, before dropping anchor at Girolata, a remote bay accessible only by boat or on foot. Its peaceful isolation was enchanting. Dinner on board was intimate and delicious, even if the orientation of the bay made it impossible to enjoy the sunset.
5 August – Ajaccio
We continue our Mediterranean sailing trio as the sailing conditions were perfect as we headed for Ajaccio. We passed through the narrow channel between a Genoese tower and the Sanguinaires islands. Ajaccio, the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte, is a vibrant city that combines history and modernity. Its old port, lined with narrow, lively streets, is an ideal place to stroll.
We explored the old town, its pedestrianised streets lined with bars and restaurants. Dinner was an immersion in Corsican cuisine, with traditional dishes prepared using local produce. We ended the evening with a chestnut ice cream, a speciality of the island, before spending a quiet night on board.
6 August – Bay of Conca
After a relaxed morning in Ajaccio, we made a diversion to the local market to buy fresh fish, vegetables and Corsican pastries. We then set sail to discover a magnificent bay at Conca, framed by large round stones. After a refreshing swim, we prepared a dinner of swordfish and sweet potatoes, followed by a spectacular sunset.
7 August – Adventures in Coca Bay and sailing to Roccapina
The morning was spent exploring and playing. Norbert and I played beach ball – a first for him – before I set off on a hike along paths lined with rocks and sandy beaches. The cove offered a panoramic view of Agapè peacefully anchored.
Later, snorkelling revealed even more of the bay’s underwater beauty. As we sailed towards Roccapina, I thought about the tranquillity of this place, far from the hustle and bustle of the outside world.
August 8 – Maddalena and Budelli – Sailing Sardinia
We sailed towards Maddalena, anchoring at Budelli. The crystal-clear waters and breathtaking rock formations invited us to a final snorkelling session. Coming across a red jellyfish, I was reminded of both the beauty and the dangers of nature. know more about our sailing trip in Sardinia
As the day progressed, tourist boats and swimmers invaded the bay. However, the peaceful first few hours and the breathtaking scenery made it an unforgettable experience. These days of sailing, exploring and relaxing left me eager to return. Corsica, we’ll be back!